Mini break at Protaras

Good morning, I had an idea! The little sister messaged, a week before I was to finish my CELTA course.

Do you want to book a holiday apartment in Protaras for two days for the two of us to go the first week you are back? Sun, sea, swimming, food, relaxation?

YES, of course. I’ve been desperate for a holiday, I hadn’t had one since Christmas, I was overly stressed planning my last teaching session at the time and I was so tired I was still in bed on Sunday noon, this was just what I needed.

There was sun, sea, swimming and all the things she promised plus (unnecessary) drama and laughter. I vlogged the whole thing, perfect opportunity to start filming again. I’m a but rusty and because there was a lot going on in my mind, I spoke SUPER fast at times, but I hope you like it.

All the places we’ve been:

-Mimosa beach. A little bay hidden behind a hotel (where you can get drinks and food). Quiet and serene most of the time, perfect for a relaxing day in the sun and a swim in the clear blue waters and there is a diving instructor nearby if you are into it.

Light and Blue Marelia apartments. Bright, airy and inspired by Greek island architecture, set on the top of a hill facing Profits Elias church (gorgeous views from their terrace), reasonably priced, we loved these apartments three years ago when we first stayed and they did not disappoint this time either.

-Profitis Elias church. A beautiful little chapel on the top of the hill overseeing Protaras, offering incredible views of the city and the sea. We went at night and the steps were well lit, the ascent only took 5 minutes. It’s definitely worth visiting if you are in the area.

-Pahit Ice. One of the island’s local chains offering scrummy ice cream. I recommend their pistachio ice-cream and their frozen fruit yogurt.

Konnos Bay beach. A gorgeous bay situated between Ayia Napa and Protaras, one of Ayia Napa’s 14 Blue Flag beaches. Clear, perfect temperature water, waterports facilities and a great cafe overlooking the beach. Just stunning.

Souvlaki tou Soukri tavern. A quirky Greek tavern in central Paralimni (a 10 minute drive from Protaras) where all food is served on wax paper. Everything we tried was delicious, especially their fried courgette balls and chicken souvlaki. Excellent customer service, generous portions and great prices (we paid 19 euros for three souvlaki skewers, a sausage, a meatball/’soutzouki’, 4 courgette balls, salad, tzatziki, fries and water) though have cash with you as they don’t accept card. Oh there is an ATM and parking space at the central square, a two minute walk from the restaurant.

Andama tavern. A huge tavern in the middle of Protaras tourist area. One of the few in the centre that offers great, authentic Greek food. We tried their ‘Piatakia'(little plates), their version of tapas (smaller than meze) and everything tasted amazing, especially their Garida saganaki (prawns in tomato and feta sauce) and Politiko Kebab. A bit more expensive than we expected (we paid 40 euros for Politiko Kebab, fried calamari, prawns saganaki, salad, falafel and water) but great service and plenty of food for two, it was worth every penny.

I hope you enjoyed my video, I’ll try and make more over the next few months, depending where life takes me. Next one will be of Rhodes, since I’ll be exploring the island for a few days starting tomorrow.

Eleni

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Breakfast is best eaten abroad

Long-term memory works in fascinating ways. Mine certainly does. I remember some things in every single detail whilst others I completely forget.

And random memories come to me at random times.

Yesterday I woke up tired. It’s been a busy week. Somehow and out of the blue this vivid memory from three years ago suddenly came to my mind. Sheba and I were in Berlin, on the hunt for breakfast and we thought we’d check out the quirky cafe our AirBnb hostess suggested. That was one of the best breakfasts I ever had.

A great selection of fruit, warm bread, mozzarella, tomato, prosciutto, a boiled egg, olive pate. Everything was fresh and tasted amazing. Such a simple but delicious, full of flavour and full of goodness breakfast.

That got me thinking. A day earlier I was telling my colleagues how the best English breakfast I had was at a small hotel in the mountains, The Royal Ship Dolgellau in Wales. Every single ingredient was locally sourced and tasted incredible. Do you sense a theme here?

Food tastes better when on a holiday, a break, away from work and routine. Especially breakfast. The first meal of the day. It may just be that it happened that the quality of the food was way more superb in these two occasions but no…

The breakfast my wonderful AirBnb hostess Malvina served me every morning when I was in Bordeaux… (I can still taste the homemade honey)

…the fresh pastries the hotel owner we stayed in Rome brought us every day…

and the traditional ones we got from Prozymi bakery in Protaras last September (what I wouldn’t give for a tahinopitta right now)…

I came to the realisation that breakfast (well not just breakfast) tastes much better on holiday mode, weekend mode, break mode, especially in the sunshine, with beautiful views.

I got up, made some porridge and counted how many days I have left before I have a long-term hopefully, break from routine. I reckon breakfast will taste amazing from that day on.

I’d love to hear some of your favourite breakfast meals you had away. Or maybe that’s only me?

Eleni

Cypriot family brunch in Larnaca

I have a list. A wish list. A wish list of cafes and restaurants I’ve heard about or discovered through Instagram I want to visit.

Today I made it to one of them. Lazaris, a bakery bar in the centre of Larnaca, serving traditional Cypriot delicacies with a modern twist, I couldn’t wait to try their food ever since I discovered them by chance on Instagram.

I finally felt better and it happened that the whole family could make it, a rare occasion and I’m glad we did.

In the heart of Larnaca, right next to Agios Lazaros Church, Cypriot vintage decor, I particularly loved the beams, it was buzzing with people (we were lucky to get a table) and felt warm and cosy.

Most of the family went for Cypriot breakfast (lountza, halloumi, fried eggs, Cypriot fresh bread, olives and a side beetroot salad) and I went for one of their sandwiches, with avocado, edam cheese, halloumi (can’t go wrong with double cheese), chicken, egg and tomato in traditional Cypriot bread. Everything was well seasoned and flavoursome. My green tea with dried fruit was also superb.

I was too full to have something else after that but the rest of the family tried a few of their puddings.

After a while a couple of friends I haven’t seen for a long time joined us and we all had a chat and a laugh.

Great food, friends, family, laughter, a wonderful afternoon!

I definitely recommend it. The place. And the combo of food, loved ones and laughter.

Eleni

Koupes! Freskes koupes!

Early 1990s…

In a small neighbourhood at Strovolos, in Nicosia, on a sunny morning, my sister, our friends, the neighbours next door and I are playing in the front yard, as we did most weekends.

Suddenly, a familiar voice…

‘ Ούλλοι να ζήσουμε! Κουπες, έσηιει φρέσκες κούπες! ( We all need to make a living! Koupes, fresh koupes!)’ 

Yiannis, the ‘koupes man’ (Ο Γιαννής που τις κούπες), a short, always wearing a hat and always smiling 60 year old was going around the neighbourhoods on his little vespa with a huge box on the back to keep his homemade koupes  warm (it’s still uncertain whether he made them himself or his wife did, if any of my childhood friends know more, please do comment).

There are very few things I enjoyed more than a warm koupa with freshly squeezed lemon on a Saturday morning. 

So what is koupa? Κούπα/kibbeh/keufteh/içli köfte as it’s known in other countries is an eastern Mediterranean and Middle Eastern (where the Med meets the Arabic cuisine) dish made of bulgur, minced onions, and finely ground lean beef, lamb, goat, or camel meat with Middle Eastern spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, allspice).  

In Cyprus is made of bulgur, minced onions, minced beef and spices. The best way to describe it is a mince filled croquette (there is also veggie variant with mushroom filling).  

And is delicious. The slightly crispy but soft bulgur crust, the tasty, faintly sweet from the spices, the onions and the beef filling and the bitterness of the lemon, it’s hard to imagine until you try it.

None of the koupes I had since Yiannis died years ago ever tasted the same and it never will, that’s the beauty of homemade food but it’s still one of my favourite treats. This is the first thing I’m having when I make it home for Christmas. 

You can find koupes in most bakeries and few fast food restaurants.

Special thanks to my mum for reminding me some of the finer details I forgot. I had no idea Yiannis was actually my grandpa’s cousin!

Eleni

Summer in Cyprus- the Glorious Food

There’s always food when I visit home.

The fridge is full with left over dinner, vegetables, sandwich fillings and whatever else you can imagine, there’s something freshly made in the oven or on the hob and plenty of snacks if you are just feeling peckish. But every time I go, I make time to try the countless cafes, bakeries, tavernas and restaurants this little island has in abundance. Hope you have a snack in hand because this will quite possibly make you hungry.

Breakfast

A typical summer breakfast can vary, from just halloumi and watermelon, toast, halloumi and lountza in pita bread accompanied by freshly cut tomatoes and cucumber, olives, fried eggs and the list goes on but what I particularly love is an ice cold frappe and warm, fresh pastries from the bakery (you can literally find one in every corner). Again the fillings can vary from spinach and feta to chicken, olives or if you have a sweet tooth, tahini and have I mentioned halloumi?

Since we were on holiday I couldn’t resist. A local traditional bakery was only a 5 minutes drive, To Prozymi and it did not disappoint.

Cyprus breakfast-pastries

Lunch

I will not even attempt to list what you can have for lunch but there’s something for everyone, from delicious salads to souvlaki, or if you are feeling very hungry and you don’t mind the heat, casserole dishes are always on offer.  The little sister and I tried a new cafe  in the Nicosia city centre, a bit hidden, called Zest and oh my, it was a-m-az-ing. Beautiful, minimal decor and the food was I kid you not, to die for. Unique recipes, beautifully executed. We had the juicy, mouth watering courgette and chicken burgers in warm pita bread topped with yogurt dressing served with fresh salad and a slice of their superb raspberry and hazelnut cake.

 

Dinner

You can’t visit Cyprus and not have a souvlaki. On our short break in Protaras I had a delicious chicken souvlaki  at  the Butchery and Co Grillhouse. I also got to try their cheese stuffed sausage. Extremely unhealthy but finger licking. It is hard to find a decent restaurant in a highly touristy area but the food there was reasonably priced and very tasty. Definitely worth a try.

 

And of course you cannot not visit a taverna and indulge in a huge amount of scrumptious Cypriot meze, our version of tapas. On a family outing, on a warm Monday evening, we visited Louis Tavern in Nicosia, a little cute restaurant in the Pallouriotissa area and we loved every dish. Kefte, halloumi, paidakia (ribs), chicken and pork souvlaki, liver, mushrooms, fried courgette and eggs, halloumi, tzatziki, salads, the whole lot. And for dessert, traditional sweet, syrup-y pastries and fruit. Each taverna do their own meze with different dishes, so you may get different variety depending where you go.

Lemonade and halva in the mountains

After a beautiful afternoon walk in picturesque Kalopanayiotis (post coming soon) we were feeling a bit peckish so we sat at the first place we found. A gorgeous hotel and spa with a restaurant and cafe area overlooking the mountains. What an amazing view. And what an incredible place.  We were unsure whether to stay there for a drink, we felt under-dressed, not worthy to be in such a scenery. But the waiters were so sweet, they made us feel welcome from the first moment we walked in.

Traditionally decorated to keep with the feel and the beauty of the little village is situated in but with a touch of luxury,  Casale Panayiotis won my heart.

I fancied something sweet and I went for halva, but not any halva, oven baked with dates and little pieces of spoon sweet. A posh version of Cypriot halva. It was unbelievable. It went nicely with my fresh lemonade. Sweet and Sour. How not to.

 

This is just a tiny flavour of the local cuisine. There’s more, much much more and every opportunity I get I’ll introduce you to it.

Eleni

When in Cyprus…

I talk about her all the time. DENISE!

Denise is going to Cyprus on Wednesday. I’m thrilled for her, and a little jealous.

But mostly excited. I always get excited when a friend visits my country for the first time.

She asked me for  recommendations.

Top five things to see/do around Paphos, she said.

I started compiling a list and soon changed from top five to top eight and I stopped there otherwise I’d end up with a 500 page Cyprus travel guide. Oh my I’d love to do that. If anyone fancies to commission me to explore the island and write about it, I can start ASAP. 

[All photos I used are from Instagram and other webpages (except the feature image) and I do not own any of it, thank you to all the incredible photographers].

So, in no particular order…

1.  Petra tou Romiou/ Πέτρα του Ρωμιού (Rock of the Roman) also known as Aphrodite’s Rock. 

According to Greek Mythology, Goddess Aphrodite was born on the Rock, through the spume of the waves (Afro is Greek for foam- αφρός). It’s a gorgeous location, one of the most beautiful in Cyprus, although swimming is not recommended as sea in that region is rough.

 

2.  Blue Lagoon Akamas/  Γαλάζια Λίμνη, Ακάμας.

One of the few regions in Cyprus I haven’t been but I desperately want to next time I’m there. Mountains with a sea view. Crystal clear water, sandy beach. I won’t say more, just look at this.

 

3. Aphrodite’s Baths/ Λουτρά της Αφροδίτης. 

Situated in Akamas area, a beautiful nature path leads to one of the most gorgeous and one of my favourite spots on the island, where Goddess Aphrodite used to bathe.

 

4. Adonis’ baths/ Λουτρά του Άδωνη

Another idyllic location. Not easy to get to, but absolutely worth it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkTZiCkgscU/

 

5.  Tombs of the kings/ Τάφοι των Βασιλέων

A 2km underground necropolis where important people, aristocrats and politicians in 300AD were buried (no actual kings were ever buried there). One of the most significant and imposing archaeological sites in Cyprus. I haven’t been since I was a child, I can vaguely remember it, I only remember it was a hot day and it was cool and eerie.

 

6. Paphos Harbour/ Λιμανάκι της Πάφου

Near the Tombs of the Kings, you can’t not walk down Paphos Harbour and wander into the Castle, at the edge of it. Restaurants, cafes, picturesque location. What else does one need.

 

7. Kykkos Monastery/ Μοναστήρι του Κύκκου

One of the largest Greek Orthodox Monasteries in Cyprus dedicated to Mother Mary/Panagia located deep in the Troodos mountains. OK, technically is not in Paphos, is about an hour and a half scenic drive through the mountains, but when you get there, you’ll understand. The architecture, the murals, the grand church, the scenery. Breathtaking. I was always fascinated by the half covered face of Mother Mary. According to the legend, whoever sees into her eyes, will be blinded. I was always tempted to unveil it, but I was too scared as a child to even try.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj6esKLHI73/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BirmC17gfzL/

 

8. Kourion/Κούρειον

Ok this is not in Paphos, it’s a 45 minute drive, but is one of my favourite places. Kourion was one of the greatest ancient cities in Cyprus and the theatre on the top of the hill with the most amazing seaviews is still in impeccable condition.

https://www.instagram.com/p/xaDo40DVdf/

 

The post should have ended here but I can’t not recommend some of the local dishes and delicacies one should taste when in Cyprus. Cyprus cuisine, although similar to Greek, is much more than that. A mixture of Greek, Turkish, Middle East flavours, all within the Mediterranean cooking culture of fresh ingredients. Heaven on earth.

– Meze.

You cannot not try Cypriot meze. Dish after dish, the next more delicious than the last.  Salad, hummus, taramosalata and tzatziki dips, fresh pita or traditional bread, Souvlaki,  sieftalia, grilled halloumi, stuffed vine leaves, keftedes (our version of meatballs), olives, mushrooms, pastitsio, mousakka,  and many more it will take a while to mention. A little bit of everything. A great way to get a taste of the local cuisine. Each restaurant have their own selection and it never disappoints. Avoid the tourist areas, go for a local, traditional taverna, and you won’t regret it. Wear loose clothes, you’ll need it after the 4th or 5th dish.

gastronomy_meze 1

(Source: Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyprustourismch/9182493269/)

–  Seafood.

Freshly grilled seabream or prawns with a touch of olive oil and oregano dressing or fried calamari and a Greek Salad after a swim is one of my favourite things ever to do when in Cyprus.

(Source: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/539517230338352710/?lp=true)

– Pastries

Often when I’m home we are on the go as soon as we wake up. And what better breakfast than pastries from a local bakery. There is one in every corner. You can try most of them if you choose the mini versions. Sweet and savoury options available. Feta and spinach, halloumi, olives, apple, cinammon fillings and the list goes on.

https://www.zorbas.com.cy/products/bakery/item/snacks

 

– Koupes 

I actually had one on my last visit because I missed them so much. The Eastern influences brought koupa to Cyprus and my life. Made of bulgar wheat, filled with minced meat, parsley and spices (or mushrooms- veggie option), deep fried and sprinkled with fresh lemon, to die for.

 

– Lahmajoun

Another eastern influence, lahmajoun is made of a thin, round dough topped with minced meat, vegetables, herbs and spices. Sprinkle with freshly squeezed lemon juice and you got yourself a scrummy snack.

 

– Spoon sweets.

Sweet preserves made of fruit or walnuts (my favourite!) and sugar. Perfect with a cup of Greek coffee or frappe.

 

I can go on for ever, one post can’t cover all the scrumptious food you can find on this little island but I have to mention tahinopita, since I’ve dreamt about it a couple of days ago. Yes, I actually dreamed of a Cypriot pastry. The most pleasant dream I had in a while.

A sweet tahini and cinnamon filled piece of heaven.

This is just a tiny sample of my home country’s beauty and local cuisine. There’s so much more, I feel I cheated on the rest of the cities (like Larnaka and the old Nicosia town) historic sites, traditional villages (e.g. one of my all time favourite Lefkara), gorgeous locations, beach sides and delectable dishes and delicacies.

Whatever you decide to do when you are there, one thing’s for sure. You’ll love it!

OK, now is time to have a cry and sell my kidney so I can book a flight home ASAP.

Namaste

Eleni

Blogmas day 23- Christmas baking, theatre and friends

It’s been a busy one today I didn’t get to write my Blogmas post until now and it’s already half eight.

I’ve only been home for two days and I’ve already caught up with two my closest friends, did some Christmas shopping, saw my little Prince and today the little sister and I did our Christmas baking.

First up it was ‘melomakarona’ , Greek/Cypriot traditional Christmas sweet, honey biscuits . It’s my favourite Christmas treat and you’ll find it in every Cypriot home. My dad used to make them every year and I used to make them back in Southampton to remind me of Christmas at home.

I was over the moon when I’ve tasted the first one and it was delicious! The whole house smelled of Christmas.

melomakarona

We’ve also made a heavenly Nutella Christmas tree. I came across the recipe months ago and the little sister, who’s probably the only person I know who has sweeter tooth than I do couldn’t wait for us to attempt it.

I just had some and it was incredible. I definitely recommend it. It’s super easy to make and it tastes amazing.

Nutella Christmas tree

After our Christmas baking we went to the theatre to watch ‘Ο Χιονάνθρωπος μου’ (my Snowman) which turned out it was mainly aimed at children and we were probably the only adults there with no kids. We had a right laugh with the little sister. It was fun anyway. We were photobombed by a not so happy mum whilst trying to take a selfie with all the little ones in the background.

Theatre

Now time for a Christmas movie and munching our homemade Christmas treats and sweet and salty popcorn I finally found in a supermarket here (and funnily enough it’s made in the UK).

Two more blogs and two more sleeps until Christmas. I can’t wait!

Eleni