Summer in Cyprus – Protaras

I’m on the plane, staring at the views of this weirdly wonderful world from above, listening to a beautiful I’ll be your mirror cover.

I’ll be your mirror
Reflect what you are, in case you don’t know
I’ll be the wind, the rain and the sunset
The light on your door to show that you’re home

I’m on my way to Southampton after 10 amazing days back home in Cyprus.

I wasn’t meant to go to Cyprus this summer. I went in May, for the little sister’s musical and I wanted to have a holiday somewhere else. Maybe a Greek island? Would my sisters be able to join me?

It’s not always a holiday when I visit home. And this time I desperately needed a proper relaxing break after all the stress I’ve put myself under the last few months.

I had a plan, a vague plan but it didn’t work out. They never do. So I thought I’ll go home instead for ten days, spend half of it somewhere near a swimming pool, a beach, some of the time continue exploring my little island’s beauties one by one and the rest of the time see friends and family. Will this plan work out?

Wednesday 29th of August

I finally fly home today. I’ve been looking forward to it since I booked my ticket a month ago. I can’t wait to get to the AirBnb the little sis and I chose for our mini family holidays, a modern complex with a huge swimming pool in a quiet residential area (and only a five minute drive from the nearest beach) at probably my favourite area, with the most gorgeous, unspoilt beaches on the island.

I got up early, had a cup of tea, packed the last few things, I double and triple- checked everything, an annoying habit that makes its appearance when my anxiety hits the fan and lingers for a while afterwards, and left for the airport early, in case there is any delay on the train or the bus. I may be late for most things, but not when it comes to flying, you probably know that by now.

I arrive at Heathrow well early, have a delicious halloumi and falafel wrap at Pret and sat on a bench people watching and praying for the second episode of Bodyguard to download in time so I can watch it on the plane.

It was an uneventful, smooth flight. First time I used Cobalt, a new Cypriot airline replacing my beloved Cyprus Airways and first impressions were great. Excellent service, comfortable, reclining seats and it felt great to hear some Cypriot before I even get to my little island, though I forgot how loud we are.

Sun, sea and happy parents

I spent, as planned, the first half of my holiday at Protaras, probably my favourite summer destination in Cyprus. Gorgeous, crystal clear blue water, unspoilt little bays and not as touristy and noisy as the neighbouring Ayia Napa or the centre of Protaras or commercialised as Paphos.

On our way there, I noticed a sign on the motorway, whilst I was driving, God I missed driving, of Cyherbia, a new botanical park at a nearby village. I should definitely check that out...

The AirBnb we booked was perfect. Modern, above ordinary clean, comfortable, large enough for five and it had everything we needed AND the host left a bottle of red on arrival. Ah the little touches that make a great host. You can have a peak here.

The swimming pool was just lovely. Large, clean, not too busy. We spent a large part of our day swimming, laughing, relaxing there. We had the most wonderful four days.

The first one, when all five of us, papa, mama and my best friends, my sisters were all together was my favourite. Rosie, the inflatable flamingo little sis and I picked the day before was a big hit!

Precious, rare moments, I’ll always cherish.

 

During our stay we went to two, Blue-Flag, organised beaches.

First, Trinity Beach. A little blue and white chapel on top of the cliff overseeing a gorgeous picturesque bay.

We spent very little time there as we went just to watch the sunset but I experienced one of those extremely rare moments when my mind completely calms down, the effect of the sea you see, the sound, the views, not thinking of anything else (that almost never happens) but looking around in awe, struggling to believe the beauty my eyes are witnessing, and for that 10 minutes I felt the absolute happiness.

 

(The little, rock-less, sandy bay, is on the far left, in case you look it up and my snaps confuse you).

We spent our last afternoon in Protaras at Kapparis beach, a stunning bay, perfect for a swim, and of historic or perhaps sentimental importance, or both. The nearest sea to the occupied part. If I were to swim around, I’d be in Varosia (Βαρωσια), the infamous Famagusta Ghost Town, one of the Top Europe Tourist Destinations before the 1974 invasion, which the Turks still keep sealed off since 1974.

I loved everything about it. The Beach Bar at the top that instantly reminded me of a friend who would have loved it, the crystal clear, perfect temperature water.

 

On one of our evenings in Protaras we walked down the main restaurant and souvenir area and after a delicious dinner (there will be a separate post on food of course) we needed a bit more walking to digest all the food so we walked by the sea.  The warm breeze, the sound of the waves, the beautiful lights, how not to love summer?

Protaras at night

If you ever decide to spend summer in Cyprus, even if you choose to stay somewhere else, I won’t blame you, it’s a tough one, there are so many great places, it’s almost impossible to make a choice, but it’s worth spending a day in Protaras. You won’t regret it.

How blessed am I to be born and raised in such a beautiful island?

PS. On our way back to Nicosia, I could not not make a stop at Cyherbia. I couldn’t stop thinking about it since I looked it up, it looked magical, and I’m glad I went, I had the BEST afternoon, I’d never expected what happened, coming up next!)

Eleni

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When in Cyprus…

I talk about her all the time. DENISE!

Denise is going to Cyprus on Wednesday. I’m thrilled for her, and a little jealous.

But mostly excited. I always get excited when a friend visits my country for the first time.

She asked me for  recommendations.

Top five things to see/do around Paphos, she said.

I started compiling a list and soon changed from top five to top eight and I stopped there otherwise I’d end up with a 500 page Cyprus travel guide. Oh my I’d love to do that. If anyone fancies to commission me to explore the island and write about it, I can start ASAP. 

[All photos I used are from Instagram and other webpages (except the feature image) and I do not own any of it, thank you to all the incredible photographers].

So, in no particular order…

1.  Petra tou Romiou/ Πέτρα του Ρωμιού (Rock of the Roman) also known as Aphrodite’s Rock. 

According to Greek Mythology, Goddess Aphrodite was born on the Rock, through the spume of the waves (Afro is Greek for foam- αφρός). It’s a gorgeous location, one of the most beautiful in Cyprus, although swimming is not recommended as sea in that region is rough.

 

2.  Blue Lagoon Akamas/  Γαλάζια Λίμνη, Ακάμας.

One of the few regions in Cyprus I haven’t been but I desperately want to next time I’m there. Mountains with a sea view. Crystal clear water, sandy beach. I won’t say more, just look at this.

 

3. Aphrodite’s Baths/ Λουτρά της Αφροδίτης. 

Situated in Akamas area, a beautiful nature path leads to one of the most gorgeous and one of my favourite spots on the island, where Goddess Aphrodite used to bathe.

 

4. Adonis’ baths/ Λουτρά του Άδωνη

Another idyllic location. Not easy to get to, but absolutely worth it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkTZiCkgscU/

 

5.  Tombs of the kings/ Τάφοι των Βασιλέων

A 2km underground necropolis where important people, aristocrats and politicians in 300AD were buried (no actual kings were ever buried there). One of the most significant and imposing archaeological sites in Cyprus. I haven’t been since I was a child, I can vaguely remember it, I only remember it was a hot day and it was cool and eerie.

 

6. Paphos Harbour/ Λιμανάκι της Πάφου

Near the Tombs of the Kings, you can’t not walk down Paphos Harbour and wander into the Castle, at the edge of it. Restaurants, cafes, picturesque location. What else does one need.

 

7. Kykkos Monastery/ Μοναστήρι του Κύκκου

One of the largest Greek Orthodox Monasteries in Cyprus dedicated to Mother Mary/Panagia located deep in the Troodos mountains. OK, technically is not in Paphos, is about an hour and a half scenic drive through the mountains, but when you get there, you’ll understand. The architecture, the murals, the grand church, the scenery. Breathtaking. I was always fascinated by the half covered face of Mother Mary. According to the legend, whoever sees into her eyes, will be blinded. I was always tempted to unveil it, but I was too scared as a child to even try.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj6esKLHI73/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BirmC17gfzL/

 

8. Kourion/Κούρειον

Ok this is not in Paphos, it’s a 45 minute drive, but is one of my favourite places. Kourion was one of the greatest ancient cities in Cyprus and the theatre on the top of the hill with the most amazing seaviews is still in impeccable condition.

https://www.instagram.com/p/xaDo40DVdf/

 

The post should have ended here but I can’t not recommend some of the local dishes and delicacies one should taste when in Cyprus. Cyprus cuisine, although similar to Greek, is much more than that. A mixture of Greek, Turkish, Middle East flavours, all within the Mediterranean cooking culture of fresh ingredients. Heaven on earth.

– Meze.

You cannot not try Cypriot meze. Dish after dish, the next more delicious than the last.  Salad, hummus, taramosalata and tzatziki dips, fresh pita or traditional bread, Souvlaki,  sieftalia, grilled halloumi, stuffed vine leaves, keftedes (our version of meatballs), olives, mushrooms, pastitsio, mousakka,  and many more it will take a while to mention. A little bit of everything. A great way to get a taste of the local cuisine. Each restaurant have their own selection and it never disappoints. Avoid the tourist areas, go for a local, traditional taverna, and you won’t regret it. Wear loose clothes, you’ll need it after the 4th or 5th dish.

gastronomy_meze 1

(Source: Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyprustourismch/9182493269/)

–  Seafood.

Freshly grilled seabream or prawns with a touch of olive oil and oregano dressing or fried calamari and a Greek Salad after a swim is one of my favourite things ever to do when in Cyprus.

(Source: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/539517230338352710/?lp=true)

– Pastries

Often when I’m home we are on the go as soon as we wake up. And what better breakfast than pastries from a local bakery. There is one in every corner. You can try most of them if you choose the mini versions. Sweet and savoury options available. Feta and spinach, halloumi, olives, apple, cinammon fillings and the list goes on.

https://www.zorbas.com.cy/products/bakery/item/snacks

 

– Koupes 

I actually had one on my last visit because I missed them so much. The Eastern influences brought koupa to Cyprus and my life. Made of bulgar wheat, filled with minced meat, parsley and spices (or mushrooms- veggie option), deep fried and sprinkled with fresh lemon, to die for.

 

– Lahmajoun

Another eastern influence, lahmajoun is made of a thin, round dough topped with minced meat, vegetables, herbs and spices. Sprinkle with freshly squeezed lemon juice and you got yourself a scrummy snack.

 

– Spoon sweets.

Sweet preserves made of fruit or walnuts (my favourite!) and sugar. Perfect with a cup of Greek coffee or frappe.

 

I can go on for ever, one post can’t cover all the scrumptious food you can find on this little island but I have to mention tahinopita, since I’ve dreamt about it a couple of days ago. Yes, I actually dreamed of a Cypriot pastry. The most pleasant dream I had in a while.

A sweet tahini and cinnamon filled piece of heaven.

This is just a tiny sample of my home country’s beauty and local cuisine. There’s so much more, I feel I cheated on the rest of the cities (like Larnaka and the old Nicosia town) historic sites, traditional villages (e.g. one of my all time favourite Lefkara), gorgeous locations, beach sides and delectable dishes and delicacies.

Whatever you decide to do when you are there, one thing’s for sure. You’ll love it!

OK, now is time to have a cry and sell my kidney so I can book a flight home ASAP.

Namaste

Eleni