Category: exploring

The Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion

September 5th, 2018

It’s a hot, sunny day.  Somehow is already 12pm and I’m wandering in Old Nicosia, sweat dripping down my back, my head so hot it physically hurts and miraculously mum and Stella are going along with it but the little sister is complaining ‘Why did we have to come today, the hottest time of the day? For what? Just to see a house?’

It’s not just a house. You don’t understand. It’s a piece of Cypriot history and it’s the most gorgeous house I’ve ever seen. Probably my favourite historic building in Nicosia, no, not just in Nicosia, the whole island!

‘You’ll see when we get there. Come on, keep going and stop whinging!’

And finally, here we are.  The Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios Mansion, or Konaki (Konak: Turkish for official residence, back in Ottoman Empire times). ‘The most important example of urban architecture of the last century of Ottoman rule that survives in old Nicosia’. So who was Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios?

He was a dragoman, an official interpreter for the Divan (Council) of the Sultan in 18th Century Cyprus, when the island was under the Ottoman empire, mainly dealing with taxation and administration. A wealthy, high-esteemed man who used his power and money to secretly help and protect Christians, lepers and the Church of Cyprus, which caused the hatred and envy of the Turk Officials who decapitated him in Constantinople in 1809.

I  can’t recall how old I was when I was last there, it was on a school trip sometime in high school but I still vividly remember that feeling of pure awe of the beautiful yard, every single room, especially the ‘living room’ where Kornesios entertained his guests.

As soon as you walk in the huge dark brown doors you can’t but admire the beautiful terrace, the imposing pillars, the beautiful trees.

 

 

 

 

 

The inside is equally impressive. The furniture, the ornaments, the architecture. How not to love this place.

 

 

 

 

 

I could just imagine how life might have been in the 1800s, Kornesios having breakfast with his wife and children on the sunny terrace,  how they would secretly meet with Christians on a dark summer evening and the next day he would be smoking shisha with Turkish Officials.

I was so happy I managed to visit this place again after so many years, now as a ‘mature’ adult. It was exactly as I remembered it, time hasn’t changed it at all, but now it somehow felt more sacred. I guess because I could appreciate its importance now.

After our visit, we headed to Shakolas Observatory for some panoramic Nicosia views. It’s always bittersweet witnessing the contrast, looking over to the ‘other side’. Such a beautiful city but divided, ‘the last divided capital in the world’.

Nicosia

It was late lunchtime by the time we were done so we sat at a nearby Cafe La Mode (I know, so many choices, why sit at a chain restaurant, but the majority won) for a cold Jasmine tea and a veggie wrap. It was delicious, I must admit.

Cafe La Mode

If you ever find yourself in old Nicosia, go, see the Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios with your own eyes, you won’t regret it.

Anna I hope you get it now!

Eleni

 

The beautiful village of Kalopanayiotis

On a warm, sunny Tuesday afternoon about a month ago, the sisters and I are in the car, singing along to one of our many favourites, on our way to the mountains.

I haven’t been to Kalopanayiotis in years, I could barely remember anything about it and I couldn’t for the life of me recall the ‘Bridge of Love’ my sister kept mentioning.

I looked forward to it since my sister promised to take us. After a short, 40 minute drive from Nicosia, here we are. So beautiful. Even the drive there was gorgeous. The closer we got, the cooler and cleaner the air was. We turned the air-con off, opened the windows and took a deep breath. Ah, pure bliss.

Cyprus

We started off from the top of the village and walked our way down towards the stream and the infamous bridge. We could see a couple posing for their wedding photos. How far off you are my darling, I thought to myself and smiled.

KalopanayiotisKalopanayiotis

I first thought this was the bridge of love, apparently it wasn’t.

On our way to the actual bridge, we passed by St. Ioannis monastery, which was closed for visitors unfortunately at that time of the day. I was gutted. I always wanted to see it in real life, ever since I watched a Cypriot drama TV series about 10 years ago, Μίλα μου (Talk to me). I still remember this scene.

The protagonist Anna, sad and troubled helplessly witnessing her life falling apart, visits a family friend and Abbess, Sister Mariam, at a Cypriot monastery, St Ioannis, situated in the most picturesque location I’ve ever seen. They sit on a bench, next to a stream, you can hear the water in the background. So peaceful.

The monastery

After wandering around, admiring the scenery, we stumbled across a healing spring.

And of course we had lots and lots of laughs. Here’s the little sister welcoming my insta followers at the village.

And here’s the infamous Bridge of Love where we stopped for some snaps (and I made a wish. Not sure if it’s customary, but it felt like a ‘make a wish’ moment).

It was getting dark by the time we reached the bridge, so we started walking back… and upwards.

Kalopanayiotis

When we reached the top of this path, there was the lift option, but none of us wanted to. It looked terrifying.

The lift

Needless to say hunger struck soon enough, and Stella heard about a posh cafe/ restaurant/hotel/spa nearby, last time she was there, Casale Panayiotis. It was the closest to where we were so we thought we’d give it a go. If we feel uncomfortable we walk out.

I’ve written about it at my Cyprus food blog so I will let the pictures do the talking. Only thing I’d say is wow.

On our way back to the car we stopped for a minute to admire the views for one last time.

Kalopanayiotis

This is just a tiny flavour of Cyprus nature, mountains, traditional villages (and you thought Lefkara was nice). There’s more, so much more. I can’t wait to show you around another beautiful place next time.

Eleni