travel – Page 6 – Lessons I learned after I turned 30

Herbs, Fairies and Cypriot hospitality: Cyherbia and Mr Adamos

I’m sat in a beautifully decorated cafe on the grounds of a magical garden, sipping on my complimentary, homemade herbal ice tea, having a deep conversation about life with a-five-minutes-ago complete stranger and I’m thinking I’ll never forget this day.

On a scorching hot Monday afternoon, after waving goodbye to our temporary holiday home in Protaras, we just made it for the first time to Cyherbia, a botanical park in Avgorou village.

From just walking through the entrance, you cannot but admire the creators’ love for what they do.

It may not have been the best day to visit. It’s the middle of the day, 35 degrees Celsius and we are about to wander in a maze, after a quick walk around the herbs garden. I’m melting, physically melting. I can’t remember the last time I sweat so much. At least we have umbrellas (the owners have really thought of everything). I found it amusing we were lost in a maze, holding our colourful umbrellas. Hah the little things.

My dear dear mamma enjoyed it more than I expected, despite our heads were so hot you could fry an egg on, she loved every minute of it. I can’t say the same for the little one, a typical 20 year old, complaining Oh is too hot!

After we finally made it out of the maze we walked into the cutest little fairy house. For a moment, you could not but just believe in magic…

With our 5 euro entrance ticket we get a complimentary homemade ice tea, so after about half an hour in the heat, we tried the lavender liqueur, ordered our teas, a couple of muffins, a banana and carob and apple and cinnamon (homemade and delicious) and sat at the beautiful cafe. So, so beautiful. Everything is beautiful here.

Whilst sitting at the cafe, a man came over to chat to us. He asked our mum who these ‘cute girls’ were. To begin with, we were taken aback, I couldn’t stop thinking what his motives were but I didn’t want to appear rude so we introduced ourselves and that was the start of a heartwarming conversation that left me leaving warm and fuzzy inside.

Mr Adamos is the owner of Cyherbia. Himself and his wife made all of this.

He is smiling all the time, calm, peaceful. When you talk to him you cannot but smile.

He found the meaning of life, for him. That’s what I felt from the little I got to know him. He seemed at peace. He found his happy. He quit his old life to live in a little village in Cyprus and spends all of his time with his family, planting, landscaping, spreading the love, making others smile.

I’m the practical one, gardening, doing work around and my wife is the creative mind behind all of this. But can you tell what the shape the trees on this part of the park form, the ‘Round of Cyprus’ forest? It’s Cyprus, and here’s where I’m from, Kyrenia.

One of the many things he said that stuck with me, Life is a gift, the most beautiful gift God gave us, we HAVE to enjoy every minute.

If Cypriot hospitality was a person, that would be him. Although he only had just met us, he treated us with figs cut fresh from his fig tree, gave us a pouch of deliciously smelling lavender each and gave my mum an aloe vera plant. A generous man who loves sharing whatever he has with complete strangers.

With him it was an old friend, Christos. Mr Christos and Mr Adamos were childhood friends and were captured by the Turks in 1974 together. They hadn’t seen each other since. But today, they met again after thirty odd years.

I hesitantly asked if I could take a picture of them. I’d have regretted if I didn’t. What were the chances the day we decide to visit Cyherbia that these two then young little boys and now 50 year-olds, would meet again after three decades?

That was such a special moment I wanted to capture. I don’t normally ask people I barely know for a picture.

Mr Adamos, sweet as he was, he of course agreed. Take a picture here, I love this spot!

After a while Mr Adamos had to leave (to catch the barber’s for his haircut!) so we hugged him goodbye. It’s the fastest I made friends with someone.

He asked us to go back for Halloween, they’ll have a pumpkin festival, they’ll do pumpkin carving amongst others. I sadly explained I won’t be there. I so wish I could. But I’d love to visit in spring, when all the flowers and herbs will be blossoming!

Just before we were about to leave to hit the beach, we went up the intriguing looking stairs at the end of the cafe, which led to a beautiful terrace, with tables, chairs and dreamy swings, overlooking the park. The surprises never end at this place. Just magical. I asked the little sis to take a snap of me. She took a couple already when I was not looking.

She unknowingly captured that rare moment of pure happiness I somehow experienced twice in the last four days.

Thank you Mr Adamos and lovely wife for a day I’ll always remember.

Eleni

Summer in Cyprus – Protaras

I’m on the plane, staring at the views of this weirdly wonderful world from above, listening to a beautiful I’ll be your mirror cover.

I’ll be your mirror
Reflect what you are, in case you don’t know
I’ll be the wind, the rain and the sunset
The light on your door to show that you’re home

I’m on my way to Southampton after 10 amazing days back home in Cyprus.

I wasn’t meant to go to Cyprus this summer. I went in May, for the little sister’s musical and I wanted to have a holiday somewhere else. Maybe a Greek island? Would my sisters be able to join me?

It’s not always a holiday when I visit home. And this time I desperately needed a proper relaxing break after all the stress I’ve put myself under the last few months.

I had a plan, a vague plan but it didn’t work out. They never do. So I thought I’ll go home instead for ten days, spend half of it somewhere near a swimming pool, a beach, some of the time continue exploring my little island’s beauties one by one and the rest of the time see friends and family. Will this plan work out?

Wednesday 29th of August

I finally fly home today. I’ve been looking forward to it since I booked my ticket a month ago. I can’t wait to get to the AirBnb the little sis and I chose for our mini family holidays, a modern complex with a huge swimming pool in a quiet residential area (and only a five minute drive from the nearest beach) at probably my favourite area, with the most gorgeous, unspoilt beaches on the island.

I got up early, had a cup of tea, packed the last few things, I double and triple- checked everything, an annoying habit that makes its appearance when my anxiety hits the fan and lingers for a while afterwards, and left for the airport early, in case there is any delay on the train or the bus. I may be late for most things, but not when it comes to flying, you probably know that by now.

I arrive at Heathrow well early, have a delicious halloumi and falafel wrap at Pret and sat on a bench people watching and praying for the second episode of Bodyguard to download in time so I can watch it on the plane.

It was an uneventful, smooth flight. First time I used Cobalt, a new Cypriot airline replacing my beloved Cyprus Airways and first impressions were great. Excellent service, comfortable, reclining seats and it felt great to hear some Cypriot before I even get to my little island, though I forgot how loud we are.

Sun, sea and happy parents

I spent, as planned, the first half of my holiday at Protaras, probably my favourite summer destination in Cyprus. Gorgeous, crystal clear blue water, unspoilt little bays and not as touristy and noisy as the neighbouring Ayia Napa or the centre of Protaras or commercialised as Paphos.

On our way there, I noticed a sign on the motorway, whilst I was driving, God I missed driving, of Cyherbia, a new botanical park at a nearby village. I should definitely check that out...

The AirBnb we booked was perfect. Modern, above ordinary clean, comfortable, large enough for five and it had everything we needed AND the host left a bottle of red on arrival. Ah the little touches that make a great host. You can have a peak here.

The swimming pool was just lovely. Large, clean, not too busy. We spent a large part of our day swimming, laughing, relaxing there. We had the most wonderful four days.

The first one, when all five of us, papa, mama and my best friends, my sisters were all together was my favourite. Rosie, the inflatable flamingo little sis and I picked the day before was a big hit!

Precious, rare moments, I’ll always cherish.

During our stay we went to two, Blue-Flag, organised beaches.

First, Trinity Beach. A little blue and white chapel on top of the cliff overseeing a gorgeous picturesque bay.

We spent very little time there as we went just to watch the sunset but I experienced one of those extremely rare moments when my mind completely calms down, the effect of the sea you see, the sound, the views, not thinking of anything else (that almost never happens) but looking around in awe, struggling to believe the beauty my eyes are witnessing, and for that 10 minutes I felt the absolute happiness.

(The little, rock-less, sandy bay, is on the far left, in case you look it up and my snaps confuse you).

We spent our last afternoon in Protaras at Kapparis beach, a stunning bay, perfect for a swim, and of historic or perhaps sentimental importance, or both. The nearest sea to the occupied part. If I were to swim around, I’d be in Varosia (Βαρωσια), the infamous Famagusta Ghost Town, one of the Top Europe Tourist Destinations before the 1974 invasion, which the Turks still keep sealed off since 1974.

I loved everything about it. The Beach Bar at the top that instantly reminded me of a friend who would have loved it, the crystal clear, perfect temperature water.

On one of our evenings in Protaras we walked down the main restaurant and souvenir area and after a delicious dinner (there will be a separate post on food of course) we needed a bit more walking to digest all the food so we walked by the sea. The warm breeze, the sound of the waves, the beautiful lights, how not to love summer?

If you ever decide to spend summer in Cyprus, even if you choose to stay somewhere else, I won’t blame you, it’s a tough one, there are so many great places, it’s almost impossible to make a choice, but it’s worth spending a day in Protaras. You won’t regret it.

How blessed am I to be born and raised in such a beautiful island?

PS. On our way back to Nicosia, I could not not make a stop at Cyherbia. I couldn’t stop thinking about it since I looked it up, it looked magical, and I’m glad I went, I had the BEST afternoon, I’d never expected what happened, coming up next!)

Eleni

Ben Nevis, on top of the (UK) world…

I’m at the top of Ben Nevis, having wholemeal pita bread (no hummus, halloumi or lountza, just bread) my adopted brother Andi, like a modern Jesus brought with him and shared with me and the rest of us, a group of colleagues/ex-colleagues, family and friends. How did this happen?

About a year and a half ago Fraser, Rob, a couple of other colleagues and I are gathered around Fraser’s desk brainstorming on how to sort out a work issue.

It’s busy, loud and three or four different conversations going on at the same time. Chaos.

Rob and I ended up talking about his weekend plans. He was going to climb Snowdon with his daughters.

When I went back to my desk I told Donna, and that’s when I had the idea of climbing Snowdon and raise money for a local charity to make it worthwhile.

Last June, six of us climbed Snowdon, an amazing experience, and raised £1,226. After that, we were itching, eager to do something similar again, but bigger!

‘What to do next? What about Ben Nevis? The highest peak in the UK’ Darren suggested.

I wasn’t sure if it would happen, it will take longer preparation, organising, planning. Flights to Glasgow, drive to Fort William, accommodation.

A year later, somehow, we are in the car, five of us, Priya, Mike, my Sofy, and Syed driving us to Luton to catch our flight to Glasgow, Andi is already in Glasgow and the Allens, Darren, Donna and Georgia and Andy are at Southampton airport waiting to board their flight.

Even then we were not sure it would actually happen. We almost missed our flight (for once, thank God for flight delays) and though the weather was not too bad the poor visibility forecast for the following day, the day of our hike, was not promising to say the least.

The drive from Glasgow airport to Fort William was stunning. Lakes, mountains, deer, sheep. I didn’t even get car sick.

We stayed at Travelodge at Fort William, which I definitely recommend if you are on a budget. Clean, comfy and right next to Loch Eli, one of the most serene, breathtakingly beautiful places I’ve ever been.

After quick dinner, I went to bed early, although I kept waking up- what if something goes wrong and any of these lovely people get injured? What if I die? I’m not gonna see my family and friends ever again, they’ll be devastated (of course overthinking and anxiety made its appearance).

We agreed to have breakfast around 7am the following day and get to Glen Nevis base by 8am. The next morning, after a light Wetherspoons breakfast and food shopping, around 9am we began our hike.

We took the Mountain/Tourist/Pony track, the easiest route to the top as the rest require experience and preferably a local guide.

We were advised at the Glen Nevis base camp to turn back if at any point we could not see the signs (not real signs, just pile of rocks the locals put together to mark the Mountain Path) on our way to the top. But we really wanted to make it. We may never get the chance to attempt it again and we are raising money for a great charity, Dan’s fund for burns who were close to Mike and Sofy’s heart, as they supported the families of their beloved friends Jon and Ellie who sadly died a couple of months ago at a horrific accident whilst on their honeymoon. Life is so painfully cruel sometimes.

Off we went. The start of the climb was not too physically demanding, it wasn’t that cold, we were all in our t-shirts after half an hour and we were all smiling and laughing.

After about three hours and many stops to catch our breath and re-fuel on Jaffa cakes, Mentos, hobnobs and other random snacks we were halfway through, just by the gorgeous waterfall with clean, tasty water right under our feet. It was not easy, there were a lot of steep turns and unsteady rocks. I wouldn’t have done it without the hiking poles my lovely friend Pat lent me.

The closest we get to the top, the more tired we get and the terrain is harder to climb. At least it’s not as misty, that means we’ll make it.

‘About an hour and 15 minutes to the top, a couple of steep turns and it then evens out to the top’ a sweet green-eye man told us.

We didn’t ask other hikers as often as we did last time when climbing Snowdon as none of the estimates were accurate. But Sweet Green Eyes was right.

We asked another lady, after the last steep, painful climb before the top who said ‘I promise you, ten minutes‘. She did not lie.

We made it! We made it to the top! Andy, Andi and I got there first and waited for the rest to climb the last bit together. We put our gloves, hats and waterproofs on, it was drizzly and cold. Andi kept the hat I gave him last year and brought it with him, so sweet. I miss not seeing him every day.

You definitely need extra layers and gloves and hats to keep you warm at the top.

After some snaps, delicious pitta bread and a quick lunch break we made our way down. It started raining, it was foggy and the longer we delayed the harder it would get.

I could see how most accidents happen when climbers blindly try to find their way back to the Mountain path. There are dangerous cliffs around the top, although it’s beautiful and mystical and feels you are in the clouds, you can easily fall into if the visibility is poor and you don’t know how to use a map and a compass.

That was the hardest part for me. The rain and the slippery rocks meant I had to concentrate and watch every step I take. I slipped a couple of times but didn’t fall thanks to the hiking poles, I wouldn’t have made it without them. Andi’s knee hurt and the rest struggled too.

After 3 hours we finally reached the bridge were we started off from 9 hours ago.

We were exhausted, in pain, I couldn’t bend my legs, but we made it, relatively intact!

After a hot shower, dinner and a celebratory drink, bruised and tired we went back to the hotel for a well deserved rest.

The following day we passed by Glennfinnan Viaduct, the bridge to Hogwarts, but unfortunately we didn’t get to see Harry, Hermione, Ron or the rest of the gang.

We arrived at the airport about an hour and a half before our flight to return our cars. Word of advice: If you rent a car with Enterprise Rent-A-Car make sure you thoroughly check the tyres for any scratches before you get in the car and drive it, otherwise they will charge you for any marks they may find when you return the car.

After a short flight and taxi ride from Southampton airport to my little castle back in town and a long sleep, I was back at work the following day.

It still feels like a dream. I can’t believe we not only made it to the top, I’m so proud of all of us, but we managed to raise £1170 for Dan’s fund for Burns so far!

If you get the chance, even if you don’t want to climb Ben Nevis, visit Glen Nevis and Fort William it will not disappoint. Clean, fresh air, idyllic mountain and lake scenery and friendly locals.

If you decide to climb Ben Nevis, I recommend training for a month or two in advance. You can do it without any training if you are relatively fit, but it will take you less time and it will hurt less afterwards.

If you want to find out more about hiking at Ben Nevis, you can do so here.

Thank you to Donna, Darren, Georgia, Syed, Priya, Mike, Sofy, Andi and Andy for an incredible, once in a lifetime experience. It’s totally worth the soreness and pain.

Love you all.

PS Thank you Syed for some of the pictures xx

Eleni